An abandoned hotel and the many flavours of Penang

An abandoned hotel and the many flavours of Penang

It’s fair to say that geography isn’t my strong point.  Prior to this trip, I had no idea either Singapore or Brunei were carved out of Malaysia – I thought the latter was in the middle east somewhere, and the former . . . gosh . . . maybe nearer Australia?  Anyway.  I can’t be the only one who didn’t know that Penang isn’t a city at all, but an island.

Yet there it is.  And more, actually: it’s a state.  (Or even a country, if you believe the Wikipedia entry and understand the political and semantic complexities of designating something “a country”, which I don’t, so for purposes of uneducated brevity let’s call it a state and move on).  It consists of a 300 km² island (Palau Pinang), and a chunk of mainland west-coast Malaysia.  But the bit people mean when they talk about Penang – and indeed the names of which are used interchangeably – is the island’s largest city, George Town.  Or Georgetown.  Poor old George/Town, people barely know it exists and nobody seems to know how to write it.

Read more …    

North Korean soldiers and the truncated Trans-Siberian to Seoul

North Korean soldiers and the truncated Trans-Siberian to Seoul

I wasn’t going to visit the Korean peninsular without attempting to get into North Korea.

Well, by “attempting” I mean “paying for a trip” and “North Korea” I mean the Joint Security Area.  

The DMZ, or demilitarised zone, is a strip of land around 2km wide which covers the entire border between North and South Korea.  The JSA is a tiny section of this where talks and negotiations take place: a makeshift hut slap-bang on the border, precisely half in each country, is the epicentre.  It’s arguably the most interesting place to visit and an essential part of any trip to South Korea.

It was also temporarily closed to visitors.

This was due to imminent talks taking place three days later between the leaders, so I deemed it a reasonable excuse not to let me in and went on a tour of the DMZ anyway, sans JSA, and feeling rather aggrieved at their ill-timed political processes.

Read more …