The Death Railway to Dawei: adventures across the Thai-Burmese border

The Death Railway to Dawei: adventures across the Thai-Burmese border

By this point in the trip, land borders had become practically pedestrian.  So the knowledge that almost everyone who crossed overland into Myanmar from Thailand did so at Mae Sot / Myawaddy meant that we were far more intrigued by the less accessible alternative route further south.

I scoured online for information on the Phu Nam Ron / Htee Khee crossing and found two helpful accounts of bloggers who had trodden the path in previous years.

Step one: take the train from Bangkok.

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Shipping containers and fire-breathing dragons

Shipping containers and fire-breathing dragons

Onward transportation from Koh Samui, organised by opportunistic but efficient tour companies, was plentiful and easy.  They branded us with stickers and pointed us towards a catamaran filled with hangovers, which zipped to the mainland, where buses branched off to various destinations: the train station, the airport, a selection of hotels.  We bemoaned the lack of autonomy whilst happily leaving the organisation to somebody else, dodged the hobbling tourists with their moped injuries (of which there were an alarming number), and leapt on the first train to Chumphon.

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Bypassing backpackers and kicking back in Koh Samui

Bypassing backpackers and kicking back in Koh Samui

On a Thursday afternoon many moons ago, my friend and then-colleague Madeleine asked if I wanted to join her that evening at a secret tiny post-premiere gig by formerly-Prince-formerly-Squiggle-now-Prince-again*.  It involved going home to change into suitable attire and also pack for a wedding I was heading to straight from the office the following day, returning to Soho for 11pm, falling into bed around 3am, then sloping back to work a few hours later, suitcase in tow.

Naturally, I jumped at the chance.

Of course, she knew I’d say yes.  We’ve always admired each other’s determination to seize the day.  Or, you know, both have a severe case of FOMO.

Therefore when, prior to my departure, Madeleine and I discussed my impending travel plans, and I said “you should join us when we’re in South East Asia!” and she said “ok!  Tell me when you’re in Thailand and I’ll fly out”, I knew she meant it.

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Too tall in Trang, and Thailand’s idyllic islands

Too tall in Trang, and Thailand’s idyllic islands

I’m strangely intrigued by international borders.  I think it’s because as a Brit, we don’t have any.  I don’t really understand why I can’t simply step over the imaginary line a few miles down the road, thus avoiding all the tedious formalities, but that aside, they intrigue me with their subtlety.  The scenery should be identical.  The vegetation remains the same.  Unlike in Britain, where crossing into a neighbouring state involves traversing either over or under a large body of water, there is no buffer zone to enable a distinct separation of cultures and therefore there should be no obvious difference.

There is, of course.

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