I found my Andong accommodation through AirBNB, which is making more of a stir in these parts than I’d expected.  Although recently built, it was the real Korean deal: a tiny, self-contained, hanok-style apartment in the garden of the main house.  It sat next to the front gate – an old, pleasingly solid wooden number sealed with a weighty beam that got hefted into place at night.  

The owners, who didn’t speak a word of English. were all smiles, even though I’d arrived far later than intended.  They turned on the ondol (underfloor heating, found in every Korean house) and left me to it.  With handy bus times stuck to the wall, wifi, and my own bathroom and kitchen, I needed nothing else.  Well, actually, I could have done with a hand translating the loo which – somewhat incongruously against the classic sliding doors, wood-carved wardrobe, and frilly counterpane – was a terrifyingly modern Japanese device with buttons on the side.  After two days using that contraption, I’m still not entirely sure that the water jets went where they were supposed to and frankly I feel rather violated.

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